Pops Auto Electric & AC Make Sense Out of Automotive Trouble Lights
Automotive trouble lights or dash lights have been around for many years, but the messages are different colors shapes, sizes – just what do they mean? The following list of warning lights (automotive trouble lights) are the most common lights used by auto manufacturers. Not all automotive trouble lights are universal. Always refer to your owner’s manual when you’re not 100% sure what the light indicates.
Many automotive trouble lights indicate that a fault has occurred inside the vehicle’s system, but it doesn’t pinpoint the item or system that has failed. In these cases, a code reader or scan tool can help determine the part that needs to be replaced. If an automotive trouble light on your dash is on, visit Pops Auto Electric & AC to get the best information to help keep your vehicle running in top condition.
Check Engine or Malfunction automotive trouble light (MIL):
Indicates the engine computer has set a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC). Usually requires diagnosis with a professional scan tool. Learn the top five reasons why your check engine light is illuminated.
Battery/Charging Alert:
Indicates voltage level is below normal level and the vehicle’s charging system is not functioning properly. Check battery terminals, alternator belt, and battery condition.
Coolant Temp Warning:
This automotive trouble light indicates temperature has exceeded normal limits. Check coolant level, fan operation, radiator cap, coolant leaks.
Transmission Temperature:
Transmission is operating at higher than optimum temperature as transmission fluid is hotter than normal. Check transmission fluid level and engine coolant level.
Oil Pressure Warning:
If this automotive trouble light stays lit, it indicates loss of oil pressure. Immediately check oil level and pressure.
Oil Change Reminder:
Indicates that oil life has expired. This is monitored by the ECM; the interval can be mileage or a combination of readings taken by the ECM. The reset procedure is listed in the owner’s manual. Some vehicles require the use of special tools to reset the automotive trouble light.
Service Vehicle Soon:
Typically indicates a lighting or other electrical problem that is controlled by the BCM (body control module). Check all lights (head lights, turn signals, brake lights, and hazard lights). This symbol may also be used to warn driver of a traction control problem, or a communication problem between modules.
TPMS (Tire Pressure Monitoring System):
If your car is equipped with tire sensors this automotive trouble light indicates the tire pressure monitoring system has found a tire with low air pressure or there may be a sensor malfunction. Check tire pressure. Some vehicles will allow manual reset of TPMS warning light and others will require professional diagnosis. Refer to owner’s manual.
Brake System Automotive Trouble Light:
Indicates one of three possible conditions: parking brake is on; problem with the braking system/brake fluid is low, or ABS problem. Check brake fluid and make sure the parking brake is fully released. If the problem is in the ABS system, it may need a professional diagnosis.
Reduced Power Warning:
Indicates Engine Computer has limited engine power output. The ECM has many levels of reduced power depending on what component has failed in its control system. Usually requires diagnosis with a professional scan tool.
ABS Automotive Trouble Light:
Indicates that the Anti-lock Brake computer has set a code and needs professional diagnosis.
Gas Cap:
The check gas cap automotive trouble light indicates that the gas cap is not tightened properly. If not addressed, quite often the Check Engine Light will also illuminate.
Cruise Control:
Indicates that cruise control is set during driving.
ESP Fault:
Indicates that there is a problem with the vehicle’s traction control/anti-skid or electronic stability system.
If the symbol lights momentarily it may mean that the ignition switch is locked and will need the proper transponder-equipped key to re-start. If the symbol is visible when the vehicle is on, then it typically indicates a malfunction in the security system.
Lamp Out:
Indicates that there is an exterior light on the vehicle that is not functioning properly.
Traction Control or ESP:
Illuminates when the vehicle’s traction control/anti-skid or electronic stability system is in use. This automotive trouble light is usually an indicator that conditions are slippery.
Door Ajar:
Indicates that a door (including hood and trunk) is not closed. Open and close all doors, including hood and trunk. If vehicle is left in this condition overnight it can drain the battery.
Overdrive Light:
This symbol indicates that the vehicle’s overdrive system has been manually turned off. Typically the overdrive system is controlled by an on/off switch.
Airbag Fault:
If this automotive trouble light stays illuminated after starting, it indicates that the vehicle has found a fault in the airbag system and the computer has set a code. Professional repair of the supplemental restraint system is highly recommended.
Washer Fluid Reminder:
Indicates washer fluid is low. Fill washer fluid reservoir. The cap has a symbol that looks like a windshield. Some vehicles have separate reservoirs for front and rear window washers.
Fog Lamp:
Indicates that the vehicle’s front fog lamps are illuminated.
One thing is for sure, if you have one of the automotive trouble lights shining, you are in danger of more serious damage to your car if you don’t get what every is indicated fixed. Contact a professional, contact Pops Auto Electric & AC now for assistance!
Use caution when working around radiator & heater, hoses and coolant. They can be very hot. Never open the radiator cap when the engine is hot, antifreeze / water can spray out. Use of safety goggles is suggested when trouble shooting car heater problems.
TIP: With a rag or glove to protect your hands from being burned, gently squeeze radiator hose to check for pressure before opening the radiator cap.
A few tips troubleshooting your car heater.
The most common problem is low engine coolant level and/or low engine temperature. Temperature from the car heater outlets should be 130 degrees or more with the fan on high after the car has warmed up.
In cars five years old or newer is the most common problem is a faulty engine thermostat.
The older the vehicle, the more likely problems are the car heater core and or multiple other problems.
A car heater core works like the car radiator. Coolant from the engine circulates through the core, air blows through the core and into the passenger compartment. Heater cores can become plugged, and may require flushing or replacement. Two hoses go from the the engine to the heater core, and can develop pin-hole leaks that only show up under pressure, as when the engine is hot.
Tracking it down:
If your vehicle has a temperature gauge, check it to see if it is in the normal range. To check the temperature yourself, you can use a metal case candy thermometer placed into the filler on the radiator when the engine is COLD. Start the car and let it warm up, the temperature in the radiator should be around 180 degrees on older cars, up to around 205 on newer ones. Be careful, the engine may start to boil over if you leave it running too long with the cap off.. Keep face and hands away from opening, and wear protection for eyes and hands.
If the engine temperature and fluid level are correct, the next most common problem is poor circulation through the car heater core. With the motor running and at full operating temperature, CAREFULLY feel the heater hoses. (Use of a rag may help protect hands) Both hoses should be similar in temperature. If one hose is considerably cooler then the car heater is restricted. Flushing the heater works sometimes but replacement is often necessary.
Depending on the vehicle, the temperature control lever may control a water valve in series with the car heater core, or an air door that mixes hot and cold air. The lever may operate via wire cable or vacuum controls. There can be problems in the control valve, cable, vacuum line, or vacuum diaphragm ( sometimes called a vacuum motor ) that controls air doors.
Water pumps can have insufficient flow. Restriction in heater hose connections at the intake or water pump will slow the flow through the car heater. The antifreeze – water mixture can effect heat transfer.
Remember for good heat you need hot water and air flow so start with the basics and you’ll most likely find the problem. Car heater cores on some cars can be difficult to replace, taking your vehicle to a good radiator repair shop may be in order. Pop’s Auto Electric and AC in Orlando Florida are experts in all types of automotive car heater repair. Call them now for a free estimate, always the best price and the best service.
Seem complicated, we can help. For many years Pops Auto Electric in Orlando has been the expert dealers bring their problem auto AC systems to fix. These dealers and shops know that Pops Auto Electric will not only fix the problem, but do it as efficiently and inexpensively as possible. Pops Auto Electric located at the corner of Orange and Holden have all the latest in auto AC repair equipment, you can’t find a more competent or honest shop.
Have you seen a dash light come on and then headlights dim slightly when blinkers are on, how about a growling noise coming from under the hood. These could be signs of alternator problems, a very simple repair for a professional, but if unattended, can leave you stranded and at the mercy of whatever help happens to be in towing distance.
Here in Central Florida, Pops Auto Electric prides itself on superior service at very reasonable prices, and auto electric like the car’s alternator is a particular specialty. Wherever you are located in the world, find a trusted auto electric specialist like Pops Auto Electric here in Central Florida, because automobile alternators going bad can be a symptom of more complex auto electric problems.
Basically, when the engine is running, an automobile alternator, when functioning properly, provides all electric to the various needs of the automobile, from the operating of the spark plugs to lights, blinkers, radio, ac fan and charging the automobile battery. When you add after market electrical items like effect lighting or a high end speaker system, you must make sure the automobile alternator is rated to handle the extra load.
If you see dimming of lights, bad radio reception, and intermittent warning lights, this is not due to a failing battery, it is most likely a problem with your automobile alternator.
Here are the 5 signs of a failing or insufficient automobile alternator:
1) Warning Light: this light will be red usually and shaped like a battery or the letters ALT or GEN. This light comes on because of an automobile alternator problem or an electrical problem that is effecting the alternator’s ability to charge the battery. If you see this light on, and you are in Central Florida call 407 857 8597 for no cost advice or call a professional auto electric specialist in your area, immediately. This problem will not go away, the longer you wait the less choices you will have.
2) If your lights dim when the ac turns on or goes up and down slightly when the blinker is on, you have an electrical problem. Either the automobile alternator is failing or is insufficient to handle the power requirements of your mode of transportation, call for help before it is too late, the problem will not go away, it will get worse, and then the over strained or failing automobile alternator will simply fail all together.
3) Do you smell burning rubber, here a growling or wining sound, you may have waited too long, get to an auto electric specialist now! When an automobile alternator completely fails, it can seize, which stops the pulley of the serpentine belt (see Pops Auto Electric blog on Serpentine Belt on the previous page) and the belt will fail. If this happens, you are stuck wherever you are, do not attempt to drive the car with a broken serpentine belt, you will overheat and seize the engine. If this has happened to you, don’t worry, if you are in Central Florida call 407 857 8597 and Pops Auto Electric will come get you and fix your problems, you can depend on them.
4) If your car won’t start and you have a relatively new battery, a simple charge is probably not the answer; it is most likely an alternator or electric problem, go to an auto electric specialist in your area, this problem will not go away. If you left your lights on, a mistake we have all made, charge the battery, if the battery has gone dead for no apparent reason, it could be alternator, or improperly wired component, a short or any number of things only an auto electric specialist like Pops Auto Electric is qualified to diagnose.
5) If the battery goes dead but your alternator checks out OK, a professional like Pops Auto Electric, in Orlando Florida, can quickly and efficiently diagnose the problem. Don’t take chances; small electrical problems can lead to major life threatening automobile fires and life threatening situations. Automobile electric issues could mean you or your family may be injured, go to an auto electric specialist now.
If you own a late model car made somewhere on earth, you can bet it probably has a serpentine belt. A serpentine belt is a single ribbed belt that drives all the accessories, A/C, Power Steering, alternator and various other pumps and accessories with just one belt. They should require no maintenance unlike belts on older models called the V-Belt that needed periodic adjusting. Even though the serpentine belt requires no maintenance or adjustments as long as it is in good condition they do need to be inspected often to you replace the belt before it reaches the end of its life and leaves you dead on the road. If it starts to go bad, you can replace your serpentine belt at a time of your choosing and not when the belt decides for you. When a serpentine belt brakes, you lose everything, cooling, ac and alternator, you do not want to let this happen. Checking ribbed drive belts at every oil change, and the position of the self-adjusting mechanism indicator, will insure you catch a bad belt long before it snaps.
The backside of the serpentine drive belt, or the smooth side, usually drives the water pump. If the serpentine belt gets oil soaked or glazed, it will slip and not provide the proper circulation to keep the engine cool. And if there is oil on the serpentine belt, it’s coming from somewhere so you will need to find out where and fix it before putting on a new serpentine drive belt. We suggest calling Pops Auto Electric for help, but do it yourselfer read on.
Look for tears or abrasions. If you see any it means the serpentine drive belt is rubbing a pulley flange or bolt as it winds it way around. This will happen more often as the drive belt gets older. If this happens you may need to file a pulley flange smooth or bend something out of the way. We again recommend a qualified mechanic, for filing engine parts can cause permanent damage if not done correctly.
Also look for pinholes and/or bumps. If you see any it means dirt and debris is getting in between the serpentine drive belt and the pulleys. Turn the belt around and see if there are chunks of the ribs missing. You can crank the engine to expose sections of belt as you inspect. A few, small widely spaced chunks are okay, But if there are many and/or close together, replace the serpentine drive belt. We cannot emphasize strongly enough that inspecting the belt in this manor can endanger your fingers, hundreds of fingers are lost each year but not taking proper safety precautions, do not touch the belt when moving, the groves will grip your fingers and could cause irreparable damage to your person. Hairline cracks are normal, but if they go into the backing, or flat side, of the serpentine drive belt you will need to replace it.
A good rule of thumb for serpentine drive belts is that if cracks are observed 3 mm (1/8 in) apart, all around the belt, the belt may be reaching the end of its serviceable life and should be considered a candidate for changing. Small cracks spaced at greater intervals should not be considered as indicative that the belt needs changing. However, the onset of cracking typically signals that the belt is only about halfway through its usable life. Remember, using a qualified auto mechanic shop like Pops Auto Electric in Orlando Florida is inexpensive compared to the expense of replacing engine parts and worse case fingers.
Insulation of the Serpentine belt in Your Automobile
Check the tensioner first
A “good” tensioner arm should exhibit just a slight vibration with about 1/32 in. or less of arm movement. And the belt should run smoothly with no visible vibration. If the tensioner arm exhibits a jerky vibrating motion, the belt vibrates, or the tensioning arm moves 1/4 in., the tensioner is bad.
If your tensioner is bad and it’s one of the more difficult styles to replace, you won’t want to waste your time changing the belt. The shop would just have to remove the belt again to replace the tensioner. So check the tensioner first with these three tests and if it looks like it could be bad contact Pops Auto Electric in Central Florida or a qualified auto repair shop for verification.
The first test is a visual inspection with the engine running to assess the dampening feature of the tensioner. Pop the hood, start the engine and turn on the AC. Then shine a light on the belt tensioner and observe the tensioner arm roller for excessive movement (Photo 1). If it passes the visual test, move on to the “crank” test (Photo 2). The tensioner arm should rotate smoothly during crank and release with no binding. If the travel isn’t smooth, replace the entire tensioner. Next, check the condition of the tensioner arm pulley/roller (Photo 3). If the pulley or roller exhibits any roughness, binding or noise, that is also cause to replace the entire tensioner.
Many tensioners are readily accessible and attach to the engine with a single bolt. To replace that style, simply remove the belt and then the retaining bolt. Pull off the old tensioner, noting the location of the locking pin on the back. Then slide the new unit into place, lining up the locking pin with the hole in the engine. Hand-tighten the bolt and then tighten it with a torque wrench to the factory specifications shown in your shop manual.
How to tell if you need a new serpentine belt
Press the gauge into a belt groove. As long as the gauge sits above the ribs, the belt is good. If it slides down so it’s even with the rib, the belt is worn and must be replaced.
First-generation serpentine belts were made from a nitrile compound that cracked with use. If your belt has cracks in three or more adjacent ribs within a 1-in. span, or has four or more cracks per inch on a single rib, it’s time to replace it. You also need a new belt if you notice any of these conditions: chunks missing from the rib area, torn or frayed fabric, glazing on the belt’s back side or debris trapped in the ribs.
Starting with the 2000 models, carmakers switched from nitrile to ethylene propylene diene monomer (EPDM) belts. EPDM belts last much longer and don’t crack or lose chunks the way nitrile belts do. But they do wear, and that wear is much harder to detect. You can measure EPDM belt wear with a gauge or a smartphone app. Both products are available for free from Gates Corp. (go to gatesprograms.com/beltwear and click on either tool).
In most cases, you’ll want to use the plastic gauge to measure your belt, as shown above. However, if you have a smartphone and enough maneuvering room to shoot a close-up photo (engine off), let technology do the work for you. The app works by analyzing the width of the ribs compared with the width of the grooves.
Always buy premium belts instead of economy grade — you’ll get almost twice the mileage.
The right tools make it a do-it-yourself project
Examine the decal that shows the belt routing. If yours doesn’t have one, draw one before you start the job.
You can replace a serpentine belt with ordinary hand tools. But we don’t recommend it. The spaces are often tight and the belt-driven devices difficult to reach. Using a serpentine belt tool to loosen the tensioner and a belt placement tool to position the belt, we completed the entire job in less than 15 minutes, without breaking a sweat (or a knuckle). The serpentine belt tool comes with an assortment of sockets, making it the perfect choice for all the cars in your family. The two extension bars can be configured to reach the tensioner at the proper angle, and the extra-long handle provides maximum leverage so you can release the pressure easily. The belt placement tool allowed us to remove and properly place the new belt without reaching down into the pulley area.
Note: If your car requires the removal of an engine mount in order to remove the serpentine belt, or the belt’s just nearly impossible to get at, we recommend you leave the job to a professional.
Want to make this problem go away with one simple phone call?
How to Choose the Right Auto Window Tinting in Central Florida?
There are hundreds of shops and individuals offering auto window tinting servers in Central Florida, how do you know who to choose, who will give you the best material and the best instillation available? More importantly will the installer be available after the sale if something is not right, or needs to be adjusted?
1) Does the auto window tint company have a physical location in Central Florida and how long have they been in business at that location? A good tint shop will be established, and thrive despite the competition, reputation and location are key here. Pops Auto Electric has provided auto window tinting services in Central Florida for many years from the same location on the corner of Orange and Holden, and business is thriving!
2) Ask about the types of tint the shop carries, and the warrantee they offer their clients. A good auto window tinting shop should provide choice and specialty products to give you the look and function you are looking for, not push you into one single product that they happen to have available. Your happiness and satisfaction should be their main concern. Remember to purchase only from a shop that offers a good warrantee for both the auto window tinting and the workmanship.
3) Ask the tint shop if they are a full service auto repair and restoration center or just selling auto window tinting out of a small office and a parking lot. Ask to see examples and reviews by others that have used their services over the years. Remember a good full service shop should be willing to spend time with you and answer your questions; you should feel comfortable that they want your business, are in Central Florida to stay and will not only do a good job but still be in Central Florida after the auto window tinting job has been completed.
4) Make sure to get a price quote before the work is done, a good Central Florida auto window tinting shop like Pop’s Auto Electric will be happy to provide a detailed estimate and fully discuss it with you before and after the instillation.
5) It is important to use a professional Central Florida auto window tinting shop, that sets appointments and uses the latest equipment to tint your car. A tent in a parking lot somewhere that has a sing “drop ins welcome” is never a good sign of a professional and permanent auto window tinting service center.
At Pop’s Auto Electric, we have been tinting windows for many many years, we have seen the changes in the industry and can fix you up with the best possible material and instillation for your car. Auto window tinting is one of our specialties here at Pop’s Auto Electric of Central Florida. Remember our motto; “Our Passion is Cars…Our Obsession is Service”
Address:
Pops Auto Electric & AC
4704 S. Orange Ave
Orlando, FL 32806
Auto AC Basics; How does Auto AC Work, How do I Know if all is Well?
Summer is around the corner, is your auto AC working properly? The first thing to understand about auto AC basics, before attempting “easy fixes” from the retail giants, is how auto AC works, and how you might be able to fix or improve Auto AC performance.
Part 1: Understanding Auto AC Basics; Car Air Conditioning
It is important to realize that auto AC basics is based on a refrigerator in a different layout. It’s designed to move heat from one place (the inside of your car) to some other place (the outdoors). While a complete discussion of every specific model and component is well outside the scope of this article, the following explanations of auto AC should give you a start on figuring out what the problem might be. This should also help you work with the right pieces if fixing it yourself or it will help you to talk intelligently to someone you can pay to fix it. Become familiar with the major components to auto air conditioning:
•Compressor:
This compresses is another basic part of auto AC basics and circulates the refrigerant in the system of the auto AC •Refrigerant: On modern cars, this is usually a substance called R-134a, while older cars have r-12 Freon in the auto AC, which is becoming increasingly more expensive and hard to find, Freon also requires a license to handle. The refrigerant carries the heat.
•Condenser:
The condenser is part of auto AC basics that changes the phase of the refrigerant from gas to liquid and expels heat removed from the car through the auto AC.
•Expansion valve (or orifice tube in some vehicles):
This part of auto AC basics is somewhat of a nozzle and functions to simultaneously drop the pressure of the refrigerant liquid, meter its flow, and atomize it within the auto AC. •Evaporator: This transfers heat to the refrigerant from the air blown across it, which is a vital part of the auto AC in cooling your car.
•Receiver/dryer: This functions as a filter for the refrigerant/oil, removing moisture and other contaminants from the auto AC system. Understand the air conditioning process of you auto AC is much the same as any refrigerant process. In a nutshell, the compressor puts the refrigerant under pressure and sends it to the condensing coils. In your car, these coils are generally in front of the radiator. Compressing a gas makes it quite hot. In the condenser, this added heat and the heat the refrigerant picked up in the evaporator is expelled to the air flowing across it from outside the car. When the refrigerant in the auto AC system is cooled to its saturation temperature, it will change phase from a gas back into a liquid (this gives off a bundle of heat known as the “latent heat of vaporization”). The liquid then passes through the expansion valve in the auto AC system to the evaporator, the coils inside of your car, where it loses pressure that was added to it in the compressor. This causes some of the liquid to change to a low-pressure gas as it cools the remaining liquid. This two-phase mixture enters the evaporator, and the liquid portion of the refrigerant absorbs the heat from the air across the coil and evaporates. Your car’s blower circulates air across the cold evaporator and into the interior. The refrigerant goes back through the cycle within the auto AC again and again.
Part 2 of Auto AC Basics: Fixing the auto AC
Check to see if all the R-134a leaks out of your auto AC (meaning there’s nothing in the loop to carry away heat). Leaks are easy to spot but not easy to fix without pulling the auto AC system apart. Most auto-supply stores carry a fluorescent dye that can be added to the system to check for leaks, and it will have instructions for use on the can. If there’s a bad enough leak, the system will have no pressure in it at all. Another part of auto AC basics; find the low-side valve for the auto AC and with a special gauge check the PSI level.
VERY IMPORTANT
•Do not use anything else to poke in the auto AC valve to see if coolant will come out, this is illegal and one of the auto AC basics. It’s called venting. Make sure the compressor is turning.
•Start the car, turn on the auto AC and look under the hood. The auto AC compressor is generally a pump-like thing off to one side with large rubber and steel hoses going to it. It will not have a filler cap on it, but will often have one or two things that look like the valve stems on a bike tire, this is part of auto AC basics and will be similar on every car. The pulley on the front of the auto AC compressor exists as an outer pulley and an inner hub which turns when an electric clutch is engaged.
•If the auto AC is on and the blower is on, but the center of the pulley is not turning, then the compressor’s clutch is not engaging, you have run into one of the auto AC basics. This could be a bad fuse, a wiring problem (see Pops Auto Electric on Auto Electric Repair), a broken auto AC switch in your dash, or the system could be low on refrigerant (most systems have a low-pressure safety cutout that will disable the compressor if there isn’t enough refrigerant in the auto AC system). Look for other things that can go wrong. The other sorts of problems that the auto AC might be experiencing include: bad switches, bad fuses, broken wires, broken fan belt (preventing the pump from turning), or seal failure inside the compressor. Feel for any cooling at all. If the system cools, but not much, it could just be low pressure in the auto AC and you can top up the refrigerant. Most auto-supply stores will have a kit to refill a system, complete with instructions.
VERY IMPORTANT
•Auto AC basics; do not overfill the auto AC coolant! Adding more than the recommended amount of refrigerant will not improve performance but actually will decrease performance. In fact, the more expensive automated equipment found at nicer shops actually monitors cooling performance in real-time as it adds refrigerant. When the performance begins to decrease it removes refrigerant from the auto AC until the performance peaks again.
Tips
•Auto AC basics; if you suspect bad wiring, most compressors have a wire leading to the electric clutch. Find the connector in the middle of that wire, and unplug it. Take a length of wire and run it from the compressor’s wire to the plus (+) side of your battery. If you hear a loud CLACK, the electric clutch for the auto AC is fine and you should check the car’s wiring and fuses. If you get nothing, the electric clutch is bad and the auto AC compressor will have to be replaced. Ideally, if you can do this test while the car is running, you can see if the hub spins. Take care to keep fingers and loose clothes away from moving pulleys and belts. That would rule out an auto AC clutch that actuates properly but then slips so badly it won’t generate pressure.
•Auto AC basics 2; the auto AC system will have a light oil in it. •If your car has an auto AC, leak even though the drain pipe is clean, some water may have entered the AC system during a drive through rain.
•Another possible replacement refrigerant is HC12a which is used quite a bit more in Europe. This is another one of the auto AC basics as It performs better than R-134a or R12. It is more flammable. HC12a is illegal in many U.S. states, including Arkansas, Arizona, Connecticut, Florida, Idaho, Iowa, Indiana, Kansas, Louisiana, Maryland, Montana, Nebraska, North Dakota, Oklahoma, Texas, Utah, Virginia, Washington, Wisconsin, and the District of Columbia. HC12a has a lesser environmental impact than R12 or R134a, but since HC12a contains hydrocarbons, it could contribute to volatile organic compound (VOC) emissions. This substance must be ordered on the Internet as local shops do not seem to stock it. The issue is that shops will not work on a car that has other refrigerants in it. Special equipment is needed for each type of refrigerant’s recovery. Standard R12 or R134a is a safer choice for any auto AC system.
•Sometimes the problem is not always about the refrigerant, or any of the auto AC basics. There may be a problem with heat radiation from nearby engine which is very hot and decrease the AC efficiency and performance. You can try to wrap / isolate the cold auto AC pipe near the engine to stop engine heat radiation from affecting the pipe and increase auto ac performance overall. Seem complicated, we can help. For many years Pops Auto Electric in Orlando has been the expert dealers bring their problem auto AC systems to fix the auto AC basics and the more critical problems as well. These dealers and shops know that Pops Auto Electric will not only fix the problem with auto AC basics, but do it as efficiently and inexpensively as possible.
Pops Auto Electric located at the corner of Orange and Holden have all the latest in auto AC repair equipment, you can’t find a more competent or honest shop.
Pops Auto Electric of Orlando Florida
407-857-8579
If you feel you have the expertise to continue repairing your auto AC basics yourself; we do feel we must list the following warnings:
Warnings
•You may not find a repair facility that will simply not top off the auto AC basics system, if they suspect that you need to repair a leak first. If you repaired the leaks and failed components yourself, it is legal to recharge the auto AC basics system with 134 without a license, but not R-12. However, getting a license to handle R-12 is easy online, and runs about $20.)
•Look out for moving fan blades and fan belts!
•If you have any reason to suspect that your auto AC refrigerant has leaked out completely (the auto AC DIY pressure gauge you bought at the parts store reads 0 psi; the compressor won’t engage because it may be sensing no pressure in the system; you checked the gauge and have no PSI level), then you are best off taking it to a professional unless you are familiar with what you are doing. As a general rule of thumb, you are probably not familiar enough if you are reading this article. The reason for this is that a completely depleted auto AC basics refrigerant system has no pressure to keep air and moisture from coming in through wherever the refrigerant leaked out. Air and moisture are possibly the two biggest enemies of an auto AC system. The ways in which they can do harm are outside the scope of this article, but suffice it to say that it is not okay to have a significant amount of either air or moisture in the auto AC lines. The receiver/dryer unit must be replaced in a case like this as you can almost guarantee that it has absorbed enough moisture to be completely useless, and before refilling the system it must be evacuated (pulling a vacuum on the system, effectively removing nearly all air and moisture from inside) with the proper equipment, which few auto AC Dyers are likely to have access or knowledge to use. Let a professional handle it, and you may get away with paying for a fixed leak and an evacuate/recharge of the auto AC system. Try to fix the auto AC yourself, and a few months down the road you might wind up having to pay for the same evacuate/recharge service, plus replacement of a seized compressor, as well as a new condenser, evaporator, and expansion valve/orifice tube because the compressor sent shards of metal throughout the entire auto AC basics system when the compressor died.
•HC12 and R-134A are non-flammable auto AC fluids at ambient temperatures and atmospheric pressure, but both may combust at high pressure and temperature under certain conditions (in contact with certain reactive metals), again, part of auto AC basics. Both also displace oxygen, so do not release a lot of the gas in a small, non-vented area under penalty of asphyxiation.
•Stay away from major leaks of refrigerant. As it vents the auto AC system, it will get cold enough to freeze your skin, resulting in frostbite, this is another of the auto AC basics. •Never connect auto AC refrigerant cans, oil or leak-detector cans to the “high pressure side” of the system, part of auto AC basics. This is often marked with H or HIGH, or a red connector cap. Cans can explode, and that would hurt. •Checking for refrigerant leaking from the auto AC system by poking something in the fitting and looking for venting may be illegal if it releases refrigerant into the atmosphere. (Please don’t do this with R-12 especially!) While it is not illegal to top off a leaking system, you must check your local regulations, as in some cases there is a state or local law against it, due to the possible emissions. Venting auto AC refrigerant, even R-134a, is illegal in the United States, so act accordingly, this is law regarding auto AC basics. •Be extremely cautious about converting your old R-12 auto AC system to R-134a. The R-134a conversion kits sold at Auto Parts stores and even Walmart, are called “Black Death Kits” by some auto AC repairmen. Frequently part of auto AC basics, the new R-134a refrigerant will not circulate the R-12 oil and you will burn up your compressor. The R-12 mineral oil has chlorine contaminants that will destroy the R-134a PAG or POE special oil. The only way to reliably convert auto AC from R-12 to R-134a is to remove the compressor and flush out all the old oil with the new type of oil; then replace the old Receiver-Dryer or Accumulator with a new one; then flush out all the lines, the evaporator, and the auto AC condenser with special cleaner then vacuum to a steady vacuum; and finally charge with 70-80%, (by weight) of the original R-12 weight, with R-134a; and expect poorer cooling ability. It is much easier to keep the old R-12 auto AC system running with R-12 that is readily available via eBay. You must have a license to buy and sell R-12, again auto AC basics.
◦Note that the above warning is controversial. Some repairmen claim to have converted hundreds of vehicles from R-12 to R134a without any problems or issues or failures after conversion.
Seem complicated, we can help with all the auto AC basics and beyond. For many years Pops Auto Electric in Orlando has been the expert dealers bring their problem auto AC systems to fix. These dealers and shops know that Pops Auto Electric will not only fix the problem, but do it as efficiently and inexpensively as possible. Pops Auto Electric located at the corner of Orange and Holden have all the latest in auto AC repair equipment, you can’t find a more competent or honest shop.
An auto electric relay is an electromechanical or electronic device through which a heavy load can be switched ON & OFF with a nominal input of current & voltage.
How does a relay work?
A heavy electrical load drawing heavy current can be switched on & off by applying a small amount of current through a coil (solenoid). The coil gets magnetized with the current and attracts or repels a plunger (a rod passed through the coil). The attracting or repelling of the plunger either connects two switching contacts in the auto electric relay (also known as NO or Normally Open/Single Throw/Form A) or separates them (NC or Normally Closed/Double Throw/Form C), as required. As soon as the electric source to the coil is stopped, the electro magnet ceases to function and the main contacts go back to their original position. In automobile applications, relays of different configurations with single or multiple contacts are used for different applications.
Why is an auto electric relay required?
Apart from switching a circuit with heavy load, on & off, a relay is required to 1. Conserve energy 2. Prolong the life of device 3. Improve the efficiency of a device. For example let us take the switching of two headlamps of an automobile. If the same is switched on through a normal switch at the dashboard, the voltage drop from the battery to the lamps through the switch will be enormous and the heat generated in the circuit due to resistance will be considerable. The heavy current will be drawn by the lamps which will not only heat the circuit but also drain the battery heavily.
To give an example of the effect of voltage drop, a chart is given below:
Operating Voltage. Luminous Intensity of a Lamp. 100% 100% 95% 83% 90% 67% 85% 53% To switch on a 12V-60/100 Watt Halogen lamp, a typical 12V Relay allows a voltage drop of only 0.02V and the coil current is only 2 milliamps. Another important function of the auto electric relay is quick switching off (0.05Sec Max.). The more time the contacts of a switch take to break at full load, the more spark will be generated due to the electromagnetic effect on contacts in a switched on state. Prolonged sparking will mean more wear of the contact points and the danger of contacts melting and generating a fire. International standards have very stringent auto electric relay specifications. The endurance of a relay is generally specified in millions of switching operations.
Where should an auto electric relay be installed?
Wherever manual switching has been used for direct switching of a Lamp or Motor or any gadget exceeding 10 Amps of load, a suitable relay must be put in the circuit. It is best if the relay can be kept as near as possible to the load (but not in a hot area surrounding near the engine) Some examples of auto electric relay use may be relays used between the owner operated window switch and the actual motor that moves the window up and down. Another example would be using an auto electric relay between the computer and the radiator fan or the A/C compressor. Also between the computer and the door locks, when the computer is programmed to lock the doors when the car goes in a forward gear.
How should a relay be installed?
1. Wires connected to the manual switch should be connected to any Coil terminal of the auto electric relay. 2. The load should be connected to any one contact terminal of the auto electric relay (unless Positive/Negative are specified) and the other to the positive terminal of the battery (for Negative Ground circuit), with an appropriate Fuse. There is an easier way to fix auto electric problems. Call Pops Auto Electric in Central Florida, they have been handling the hardest and most complicated auto electric problems for many years and they are the acknowledged experts in the field. Many other shops and dealerships come to Pops Auto Electric when a really complicated electrical problem arises, because they are the best around. Auto electric relay problems are a snap with Pops Auto Electric, call today:
Call Pops Auto Electric now and put your mind at ease!
407-857-8579
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Pops Auto Electric & AC 4704 S. Orange Ave Orlando, FL 32806
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